Heritage at risk: Salem’s silver anklets struggle for recognition without GI tag
The trade has been part of the city’s cultural fabric for generations, but most units are small-scale, family-run operations led by artisans without formal education or record-keeping practices.
“Our business has never been formally documented,” said C. Sri Anandarajan, president of the Salem District Kolusu Manufacturers Kaivinai Sangam.
“The GI registry needs evidence that the craft has existed in the same geography for at least 25 years, and producing that proof has been our biggest obstacle.”
Unlike gold jewellery, which carries the BIS 916 hallmark, silver jewellery in India lacks a uniform quality standard.
A GI tag, manufacturers believe, would not only enforce such standardisation but also enhance the reputation of Salem’s silver anklets globally. Markets in Sri Lanka, Singapore, Malaysia, and Vietnam are seen as having strong potential for direct exports.
“At present, our anklets are sent to other states before being exported, and in the process, they lose their identity,” Anandarajan explained.
“With a GI tag, Salem anklets could carry their name abroad and meet consistent quality benchmarks.”
The absence of formal recognition has also affected the industry’s future workforce. Many senior craftsmen fear they may be the last generation in this profession, as younger artisans opt for daily wage jobs in painting, construction, or petrol stations, seeking more stable incomes.
The industry remains a vital source of employment in Salem, with nearly 10,000 units supporting about 1.15 lakh people -- 78 per cent men and 22 per cent women.
Production is decentralised, with specific stages handled by specialised groups across different neighbourhoods.
Over 15 types of silver anklets are made in Salem, including the distinctive ‘Thalakkolusu’, crafted for infants.
This design expands as the child grows, allowing it to be worn for up to four years. Until the GI tag is granted, however, this centuries-old craft continues to fight for its rightful place on both the national and international stage.
